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When I left Lebanon for England more than thirty years ago, all I brought from Beirut were a few over elaborate dresses and a doorstopper of an old Arabic cookbook, which was anything but. It contained the one element of my Lebanese culture that was essential - the scents and flavours of my childhood and early youth, which brightened what would otherwise have been a bleak landscape of boredom and war. In London, it was how I first communicated with my new world when my English was still halting and sparse. It gave me a power that helped me deal with all the challenges I faced. Later, it gave me a livelihood, too, as I turned what had been a hobby and a pleasure into a job that freed me from the constraint of offices and institutional hierarchies. I named my company after my second daughter, Samara. The small blue van I used for weddings and parties had and still has a cooking pot as a logo - and on its side, I perhaps unwisely engraved what we offer at Samara cuisine, including Shishas and Bellydancers - something that still stops traffic more than fifteen years later. And all through those years, I nursed the ambition of putting down all I knew of my beloved Lebanese food in a book, which would contain my favourite recipes and some of the stories and memories with which I associated them. This, finally, is that book. I am not trying to re-invent the dishes of my birthplace, but rather to present the best of what Lebanon has to offer through recipes that I have honed over decades of practice, first in Beirut and now for many years in London. I am very traditional about food - I prefer simplicity above all. I want to be reminded of the air high in the mountains above Beirut when I grill spiced meat and the little fish restaurants on rickety platforms into the Mediterranean beneath the Casino du Liban when I cook a sea bass. My aim with this book is to provide a concise guide to all that's good in Lebanese food, but also to give a scent and a taste of world in which I grew up - a Lebanon in its prime, of which I had the briefest glimpse before it was all but extinguished by war. Even now - as the lights are literally out across the country because of economic collapse - comfort and pleasure can still be found in the unchanging, addictive panoply of flavours in a well made mezze. Here, in this book, you can find those pleasures waiting for you - it's taken me half a lifetime to get it right. Now, it's your turn to share this distillation of a cuisine that is truly one of the wonders of the world.
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